What kind of Chicagoan would I be if I didn’t write about pizza? After all, we gave the world the gift of “deep dish” and I’m pretty sure we invented cornmeal crust,too.
There is more good pizza to be found here than anywhere outside of Napoli.
A Brief History Of Ellen Ross’s Pie-Eating Time.
As a youngster I did not like cheese. Or food in general. I only ate hot dogs, hamburgers and Niblets canned corn. This food phobia made eating pizza impossibile.
Until a fateful sixth grade sleepover at my girlfriend Barbara’s house.
Around ten p.m. the girls raided the kitchen and somebody pulled out a box of Kraft Do-It-Yourself Pizza Mix.
Remember that? A nifty kit that contained an envelope of pizza flour dough (just add water) a can of tomato sauce, a package of parmesan-like cheese and a packet of herbs and spices.
The more culinary-minded little girls squealed with delight and thirty minutes later- Ecco! A pizza had emerged.
Peer pressure was on. I had to eat their masterpiece. So throwing my lifetime anti-cheese bias to the winds, I took a very tentative bite.
Hmmm. I kind of liked it. And by immersion therapy, I gradually graduated to Jeno’s pizza rolls and John’s frozen pizza.
My little brother Kenny had a big pizza monkey on his back. At his urging, I was soon mainlining the hard stuff- delivery from pushers like Tonelli’s and The Spot.
Twelve Step Update Sidebar: Kenny is still hardcore. The other day he went to Treasure Island and bought a Tombstone frozen cheese and sausage pizza. “I like it once in awhile,” he unashamedly confessed when confronted by my head-shaking. Some junkies can NOT be cured.
By high school I had my pizza-eating down. (Cheese and sausage only. Mushroom wouldn’t make an appearance until college.)
And if a boy really wanted to impress me, he only had to drive me downtown to Uno’s, Due’s or Gino’s East.
Let’s dish about deep dish.
When me and my metabolism were both younger, I loved deep dish pizza. It was all about the cornmeal crust for me. In fact, I ate it inside out- that is to say I started at the back end.
The outer perimeter- with its blistery, charred edges- is what I’m talking about. In fact, now that I think about it, I still avoid the middle of the pie at all costs. I only chow down on the outer limits. To hell with the squares in the middle.
But these days, my ability to still fit into my high school cut-offs more than outweighs (sorry) my craving for acres of crust.
Enter Pizano’s.
Their thin, cornmeal crust number fills my pizza bill. It’s a hybrid between deep dish and paper-thin (more about that later) and it’s got pretty good sausage, too.
Lou Malnati’s serves up a good pie, as well. Lou worked for Ike Sewell at Deep Dish Pizza Ground Zero. I think he was around when Ric Riccardo invented it.
Pizza History Chronicles: The origins of Chicago deep dish pizza are getting misty but I’ve always given credence to the story that, after founding their pioneer Mexican joint Su Casa, Ike Sewell and Ric Riccardo were looking for another cheap, innovative food group to bring to the masses.
Enter Uno’s. And then its younger-but-bigger sister, Due’s.
(But if you have any evidence or folklore to the contrary, please comment away below.)
But I always had a soft place in my cuore for really great thin crust.
Paging Frank Mariani. Successful North Shore landscape contracting baron- and major fork.
One day I took advantage of our happy business affiliation to presume if he knew of a good thin crust place up his way. (Lake Bluff.)
He did.
The Quonset Hut, Waukegan.
Bravo! Really good call, Frank.
We went. We ate. It conquered.
One not-quite-as-tasty divorce later, and I was banished to a pizza desert.
Aspen.
Aspen may have many things- like God-given great weather and gorgeous scenery- both natural and manmade ( read: very cute guys) but good pizza it hath NOT.
For years I had to put my ‘za cravings on hold until I could come back here to attend to them.
And now that I’m back in Chicago, I have made two very important discoveries.
1. Pat’s Pizza on Lincoln and their terrific, wafter-thin, see-through pizza
2. Pizza is not meant to be ordered in for one.
Pizza is for lovers.
So, single pizza fans now hear this:
If the middle of the pie suits your fancy (no anchovies, per favore) let me know, okay? I’ve got the outer edges covered.
Wanna share?
Email me, amore.