Sandwich Wrap-up

That’s John Montagu, the fourth Earl of Sandwich.  He was born in 1718 and he died in 1792.

He was a diplomat and a rake.  A world traveler, a high-ranking official and an inveterate gambler. He had held many important posts in his lifetime. And failed miserably- and upwardly- at all of them.

A wit once suggested that his epitaph read “Seldom has any held so many offices and accomplished so little.”

And he did me a solid.

Legend has him inventing a light repast- modeled after the small canapés he had seen on his Eastern Mediterranean tour- so as not to interrupt his all-night gaming bouts.

Food historians date the small protein nestled between two slices of carbs somewhat earlier but they concede that this Gamblers Anonymous poster boy’s title and cachet instantly popularized this new food group.  Other gamesters were quick to shout out “I’ll have the same as Sandwich!” to no-doubt exhausted club waiters.

When legend becomes fact, print the legend.

As far as I’m concerned, John Montagu is one of the greats.  Sandwiches are right up there on my Food Hit Parade along with hot dogs, hamburgers and pizza.

What would lunch be without them?

It all started for me with Oscar Mayer.

As long as I can remember, Oscar Mayer bologna had pride of place in our old refrigerator.  Even my mother- who could not cook and showed no interest in food- knew how to places two slices of O.M. bologna between two slices on Wonder Bread.

(With a squirt of French’s mustard for garni.)

Sometimes she’d vary the menu.  The bologna was replaced with a smear of Oscar Mayer liver sausage.

What was she/I thinking?

Add a summer’s day, a paper plate and a sweet gherkin pickle and you had the perfect picnic.

But I didn’t stay on one side of the ethnic sandwich aisle.

The old Ashkenaz on Morse Avenue certainly had its charms.

I doubt that the Earl ever enjoyed a corned beef sandwich on rye washed down by a chocolate phos but he’ll never know what he missed.

As I grew older I discovered that a sandwich could be much more than lunch meat.

It could contain tuna salad, egg salad or my favorite- chicken salad.

And my favorite chicken salad sandwich was right under my nose.

It could be had at The Patio in Winnetka.  Along with a lemonade.  (Their pop machine broke long ago and they simply neglected to replace it.)

Located in the little shopping arcade along with L&A Stationers, The Patio’s finely-minced chicken salad sandwich was a little slice of heaven.

(And if that didn’t float your boat and dessert was more up your gastronomic alley, they baked an unbelievable angel food cake filled with chocolate chips and topped with a dreamy, light mocha frosting.  It made a spectacular coda to your refined ladies’ lunch.)

(Not exactly it.  But close.)

And if I wanted to go downtown, there was always my grandmother and…

The Marshall Fields Special.

Grandma would treat me to the Walnut Room’s most famous sandwich- an open-face turkey club smothered in Thousand Island dressing.

Yum.

And then one day I made a huge discovery in Chicago.

A sandwich didn’t have to be cold.

A sandwich could be hot.

Cue Don Roth’s Blackhawk.

Swoon. Creamy mornay sauce atop wonderful turkey and tasty ham- all serving piping hot in its own little dish.  I was in love.

Sigh.

Those were the sandwich- and damn the calories-days.

These days, with Marshall Fields, The Patio and the Blackhawk gone with the sands of time, I’ve had to make do.

And I haven’t done too badly.

I’m all about the turkey sandwich at the Berghoff outpost at O’Hare, the turkey sandwich (hold the cheese) at the Levy Brother’s concession at Arlington Park and I throw in the odd lobster roll whenever I can get one.

Hugo’s makes a good one.

But I have recently located a sandwich that nows reigns supreme.

The best of the best.

If you’re ever in the Boston area, head to a small sub-section called Waban.

Located in an eh-looking tiny strip mall is a hidden gem.

It’s called Barry’s Village Deli.

Scan the menu until you come to “Artie’s Famous Pilgrim.”

It’s simply described as “Hand Cut Turkey with stuffing, cranberry sauce and mayo.”

OMG.

The Earl could bet that this sandwich is a sure thing.

Now see if you agree with this list.

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12 Responses to Sandwich Wrap-up

  1. Ken Roffe says:

    Next time you are in Detroit airport or Las Vegas check out The Earl of Sandwich for lunch. He is a relative of the original Earl and makes a very tasty sub!

  2. x-1 says:

    Add Miracle Whip to the Wonderbread (with or without bologna) and you have what was my favorite meal. That and a half box (exactly 1 1/2 rows) of Salerno chocolate chip cookies and milk for an after school snack.

    • Ellen Ross says:

      I never knew that. Geez. You think you know a guy and then you find out he likes Miracle Whip not Hellmans. (To tell the truth, I liked it better when I was a kid,too.) Thanks, X-1.

  3. x-1 says:

    Hellman’s – yuk! None of that real stuff for me.

    • Ellen Ross says:

      What can I say? They both have their place. And on occasion, I even make my own. I’m an equal opportunity Mayo gal. All good.

  4. Mitchell Klein says:

    The Deli Board in San Francisco. A local Northbrook boy makes the best sandwiches on the West Coast.

  5. Annie says:

    Scandia Catering Shop in Wilmette creates the most beautiful and elegant sandwich loaf which can be served for any luncheon or brunch occasion. On Thursday’s they sell it by the slice, but arrive early to avoid the line of customers who have been eating and craving it for the many decades that Scandia has been serving it. Nothing like it anywhere.

    • Ellen Ross says:

      Wow! Really? Great to know, Annie. I’ve had their tetrazzini but never the sandwich loaf. The next time I’m in Wilmette on a Thursday, I’m there! 👍😊

  6. Steve Lindeman says:

    I’m just a little late to this party (computer problems) but had to add to the conflict between Hellmans and Miracle Whip. I grew up with my Mom always using mayonaise…she hated any salad dressing. So until my senior year I had never tasted Miracle Whip. After school one day, I stopped at John Kearney’s house and of course we were both starved so his housekeeper fixed us ham sandwiches and this was my first experience with Miracle Whip.(thought I died and went to heaven). Now to this day I always have Hellmans and Miracle Whip in the fridge using both for different dishes.

    • Ellen Ross says:

      Never too late, Steve, for a comment as wise as this. I heartily approve this “hands across the aisle” approach to the eternal Mayonnaise conflict. A Solomonic solution. 👍👍

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