That’s the Glass Dome Hickory Pit. Long a legendary landmark on Chicago’s South Side. Here it is at its first location on Union Street in 1955. Later, it moved two blocks west to 2801 South Halsted. Just a hop, skip and a long ball’s throw from Comiskey Park.
And that’s where Bill introduced me to it in 1976. Until it closed in 1995 (I think) many’s a Sunday that we happily schlepped the kids all the way in from Winnekta. We loved the barbecue here. (And even though it’s not technically ‘que, I have to give a quick shout out to their fabulous steak parmigiana, too.)
(Courtesy of the Fred Nachman Matchbook Collection.)
But the steak parm aside, I have been greedily and enthusiastically eating bbq- and all the fixins’- since 1954. I’m talking about baby back ribs, brisket, pulled pork, chicken. If it’s got barbecue sauce on it, I want it.
Author’s Note: I’m going to mess with Texas. I have been to Sonny Bryan’s in Dallas. Nope. Beef ribs are not the same as pork. Sorry, you guys. I’ll remember the Alamo- and forget your barbecue.
A Brief Chicago Barbecue History Of Time Line:
In the 1780’s, when he opened a trading post on the south bank of the Chicago River near Lake Michigan, Jean Baptiste Point DuSable is believed to be the first permanent resident of Chicago.
He was black, probably French Canadian, and he married a Potowatomi woman. Talk about fusion. Grilling, roasting and rotisserie were all integral to Chicago cuisine from the very start.
By 1880, Gustavus Swift had introduced a new rail car that was ice-cooled. And by 1865, Chicago’s Union Stockyards had become a central distribution point for shipping live animals. Peaking in the 1920’s, Chicago was the central feed lot, slaughterhouse, butchery and meat packer for the nation.
After World War II, a “Second Great Migration” of black sharecroppers moved North in search of factory jobs. Baste all this with Mumbo Sauce, throw in the invention of the Weber Kettle, add a dash of Mike Royko’s Ribfest, and today, Chicago’s barbecue scene is stronger than ever.
But back in the day, there was the one and only…
Mary’s Cupboard: If I had to guess, I bet my taste for barbecue all started at right here on Green Bay Road. For those of you who didn’t grow up on Chicago’s North Shore, let me explain. (Sorry, but no one seems to have a photograph of this place. If you find one, please let me know ASAP!)
I don’t need a photograph to conjure up this hallowed spot. I have vivid memories. The mural of George Washington crossing the Delaware, the chickens turning on spits in the window, the Bun Bar from the glass case beneath the cash register for dessert.
And who could ever forget their sauce? It gave Kenny a headache, (msg?) and as Fred Nachman reminded me, bratty New Trier kids sometimes left their tips in the sauce.
There were their signature utilitarian tan plastic, three-sectioned plates and…
OMG, the cole slaw.
This was as soulful as Winnetka was going to get in the fifties. Which leads me right to
Russell’s on Thatcher in Elmwood Park.
Russell’s opened in 1930 and it’s still going strong. My dad loved it and so did I. However Russell’s is an acquired taste. The buns are strictly from Wonder, the “spicy” sauce is mild as heck, and the barbecue beef is neither pulled, chopped or charred. It’s more like minced. It has no flavor of any kind, and yet I’m still crazy about it.
Figurez-vous.
It may be the “mouth feel,” or it might be nostalgia, but as non-authentic as it is, I would take a ride out to Thatcher Avenue any day.
Mama Batt’s is another place where I had barbecued beef sandwiches courtesy of my father.
One summer I worked at his office on Lake Street in Chicago. I didn’t particularly enjoy invoicing the brooms and brushes that the factory made, but I did love two things. The commute back and forth from the ‘burbs every day.
And lunch.
Dad took me anywhere I wanted to go, and more often than not, I wanted to go to Batt’s for the barbecued beef. This was kind of Jewish deli soul food. It was chopped, spicy and came with a great pickle. My father and I both loved that sandwich.
But all the Roffes- and our extended clan- adored Miller’s on Lunt and Western. (Thanks for the correcti0n, Bob Boehm.) Founded in 1946 by Harvey O. Miller, it was born out of an A/C installation job done by Miller’s company that Bill Simmons (of Simmon’s Steak House) couldn’t pay for.
Since Harvey didn’t like any of the restaurants he frequented, he worked out a deal with Simmons, and the result was a terrific place where we ate honeybacked ribs and great cole slaw.
Wesley’s in Skokie was another place where we kids scarfed the ribs. Sadly, I don’t remember much of the place, but I know we liked it.
And when our folks moved to Los Angeles for a brief 1968-69 stay, Kenny and I discovered Dick Whittinghill’s in the Valley. (Sherman Oaks, I think.) Gone now. Great ribs.
Back here, Carson’s opened their first joint in 1977. They’re still serving them up in Deerfield and Chicago. I like their ribs, but these days, if I have my druthers, take me to Gibson’s on Rush.
My old waiter Mario- since moved west to warmer pastures- once explained why I love their ribs so much. They get them from a special purveyor, AND he insisted that the chef cut them up for me and save me all that wear, tear and mess of dividing them.
If only Mario could have figured out a way for me to gnaw on them in a lady-like fashion. When I go at them, it’s not pretty. So if I’m out in company, I order a steak. But if I’m among friends, bring on the ribs! I’ll floss later.
These days, too, there’s L. Woods and Wildfire to satisfy my ‘cue cravings..
And if I’m really feeling it, I go whole hog and order in from Rendezvous in Memphis. They supply the main event. I supply the beans, cole slaw, corn on the cob, paper towels and a sink.
Now I’ve got to knock off. I’m getting hungry.
Guess what I’m having for dinner tonight?
Correction, but close! Miller’s was on Lunt and Western. Sally’s was on Devon and Western, and they had good ribs, also?
Fixed. And thank you. I appreciate the GPS.
We stumbled over a new place for us in Lincoln Park last weekend..It’s name” The Farm”..It was just west of Lincoln and right next to the Lou Malnati’s..and across from the now shuttered “Salt and Pepper” diner and a very busy 4 or 5 way corner…..Lots of football watching, 20 somethings and us..I had the ribs and Lou had the pulled pork sandwich…Both were delicious, reasonable and the wait staff made it fun as well….Very hard to park but we found something a few blocks away..Try it!
Very nice recommendation, Diane. I will be sure to. It’s in my ‘hood. Thanks!
1968-1969 very brief
I’ll fix it. Thanks for the very brief comment.
Great blog Ellen…I’d call it delicious! We only went to the Hickory Pit for occasions like Mothers/Fathers Day and birthdays with grandparents, cousins and various other family along with 2 other, now defunct, favs: Phil Smidt in Hammond, IN and Hoe Kow on, I believe Lake St. Downtown. On the other hand, my folks took us kids out every Thursday (no housekeeper) and our choices were, in order, always Mary’s Cupboard, Hackneys and Charley Beinlich. My mother generally lobbied for the latter two because Mary’s had no bar. I remember everything you described and I also generally chose the Bun bar…sometimes Hershey with almonds.
Two more notes: two of my friends bought Millers at the end and tried to save it. They kept the long time manager but only prolonged its demise by about a year. Also, when Henry (forget his last name) opened The Winnetka Grill at the site of Mary’s he obtained the rib and cole slaw recipes. With a couple days notice he’d prepare them for good customers for carry out only. He nailed the recipes but not longevity for The Grill. I’m now thinking Lilly’s Q carry out for the Bears tonight.
So glad to hear I’m drumming up some BBQ business. (Another reader on Facebook just told me it’s ribs for her in Florida tonight!). Thanks for this. I’m sending you something special via email in a minute.
The first time I ventured downtown to meet my Dad for lunch, he took me to Mama Batts and I fell in love with the place. After that, every time I would meet him for lunch he would ask me where I would like to go, and Mama Batts was always my answer. We did go to other places, but Batts was always my favorite. Loved the blintzes!
Who knew? A very small world indeed. Did you ever get to Barney’s Market Club? Yes sir, Senator! Thanks, my friend.
Mouth watering and it’s only 8:30 in the morning.
Sorry, pal. Break out the bib and head over to Dr. Hogly Wogly’s. Wish I could join you.
Next time, E. Remember, November is National Barbecue Month. A trait it shares with the other 11 months.
And I say, in its honor, we all get together electronically and see if we can reproduce that Mary’s Cupboard cole slaw recipe. I am obsessed.
I like the idea, but I can’t help because Mary’s Cupboard is just a name to me. I was never there. Strangely, since my mother didn’t like to cook, we seldom ate out but always had long and riotous dinners at home.
I am surprised. This was the go to restaurant for so many New Trier kids- not just their families.
Not surprised it only took four comments for somebody to mention Hoe Kow. I posted an old photo on FB when the building was being demolished (found out too late for a photo) for yet another high-rise and received several “we drove in from the suburbs” comments. Best fried rice ever.
I sent Gary the photo you sent me. (That’s because I could not figure out a way to put in the comments!). Thanks for your invaluable contribution to this post. Your shoebox is better than Bettman Archives.
To Gary W.,
You hit the nail on the head!!
As a South Sider growing up there in the 50’s, Phil Smidt’s was a destination for all of us in its hey days….at least once a month. It was and will always be my favorite restaurant.
As far as ribs, how many remember The Tropical Hut in Hyde Park….not too far off the U of C campus? Best ribs ever!!!
While we’re talking about the BEST, Edyie Gorme was the finest female sophisticated pop artist ever. Streisand can’t hold a candle to her!
From the Tropical Hut- (I remember that place. Pretty darn good) – to Eydie Gorme. Your mind makes leaps that are impossible to predict. But thanks for the ride, Bernie. As always an adventure.
Yes Ellen,
Not too opinionated, huhhh?
Better than having no original thoughts of one’s own, I think.
Oh, and Gary W.,
Remember The Shangra La across the street from Fritzel’s?
Great Polynesian.
Both were awesome. Thanks, Bernie.
Where are all my South Shore/Hyde Park friends this morning? T-Hut must be mentioned! I still miss those very “spare” ribs…no fat…just chewy and delish. Ribs Sunday night for dinner with the family…Friday and Saturday nights after the movies…Dressel’s chocolate cake and coffee for me and barbecue beef sandwich for my date.
You just missed Bernie. He’s on it! Thanks, darling Nancy.
Bones in Lincolnwood you could always get a good slab of baby backs. Russells bbq was distant relatives of mine and my grandfathers $3000 mistake. I remember my Gramps taking me and I would always want to see Warren (the head chef) cause he would let me get a few ribs right out of the big oven. They (distant relatives) came to him back in the 30’s and offered him a piece of the place but he didn’t want to part with the $3000. Although my relatives sold the place back in the 90’s. My gramps always regretted the decision soon after he said no.
It’s a small small BBQ world. You are (distantly) related to Russell’s. Very nice serendipity here. Thanks, Mark. This year I may have to visit! The Teepee beckons.
My office is 3.5 miles away from Teepee let me know
I’m so jealous.